rreddy3

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Good point. In the video they used the wrong battery. Which doesn't have the proper hold down foot, so the battery is completely loose when installed. Bad. That is an improper repair, the battery always needs to be 100% tied down so it can't move, otherwise you risk a fire if it moves and touches ground.

Spend the money and get the proper H3 AGM replacement battery so it fits and works properly. No substitutions.
Although my 12v battery does not need replacement, I am curious whether it can be removed/replaced, when that time rolls around, without removing the frunk tub. Is that possible? Thanks
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Although my 12v battery does not need replacement, I am curious whether it can be removed/replaced, when that time rolls around, without removing the frunk tub. Is that possible? Thanks
Whether they use the wrong battery or not in the video, my 23 can be removed just like it showed without removing the tub.
 

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Although my 12v battery does not need replacement, I am curious whether it can be removed/replaced, when that time rolls around, without removing the frunk tub. Is that possible? Thanks
Maybe, but I would personally just remove the tub because I think that's easier than trying to fight with the battery. Removing the frunk tub only takes about 5-10 extra minutes, I've done it and it's not bad.
 
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dtbaker61

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RockAuto has the BHAGMH3 for $143. I would think about that before paying over $200 for that little battery.
what was shipping ?

...but yes, I would have checked RockAuto if I were planning ahead and not trying to handle it as an emergency.
 

rreddy3

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Maybe, but I would personally just remove the tub because I think that's easier than trying to fight with the battery. Removing the frunk tub only takes about 5-10 extra minutes, I've done it and it's not bad.
Thank you!
 


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what was shipping ?

...but yes, I would have checked RockAuto if I were planning ahead and not trying to handle it as an emergency.
$13.
I would just drive my truck to work until I installed the new one.
 
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dtbaker61

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Whether they use the wrong battery or not in the video, my 23 can be removed just like it showed without removing the tub.
That's good to know.... if I were just replacing the battery, that would make it a super quick job.

I wanted to pull the tub to get a better look at the fusebox, and the 12v connection points so I could decide where to wire in 2awg cable for 12v import/export. I go that all done the next day, and will post a separate thread on that for people interested in import/export of up to 1500watts thru the 12v connection points.

Ford Mustang Mach-E How-To: remove and replace your 12v battery - recommended at 36 months 20240604_03 cables connected


Ford Mustang Mach-E How-To: remove and replace your 12v battery - recommended at 36 months 20240604_06 installed and stowed
 

Jerrytball

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That's good to know.... if I were just replacing the battery, that would make it a super quick job.

I wanted to pull the tub to get a better look at the fusebox, and the 12v connection points so I could decide where to wire in 2awg cable for 12v import/export. I go that all done the next day, and will post a separate thread on that for people interested in import/export of up to 1500watts thru the 12v connection points.

Ford Mustang Mach-E How-To: remove and replace your 12v battery - recommended at 36 months 20240604_06 installed and stowed


Ford Mustang Mach-E How-To: remove and replace your 12v battery - recommended at 36 months 20240604_06 installed and stowed
Nice, I know on here somewhere there’s a detailed thread of everything under the tub.
 
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dtbaker61

dtbaker61

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Nice, I know on here somewhere there’s a detailed thread of everything under the tub.
Yes, I wanted to get a look for myself and verify best place to connect some heavy duty cables for export as long as I was replacing the battery
 

rreddy3

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Maybe, but I would personally just remove the tub because I think that's easier than trying to fight with the battery. Removing the frunk tub only takes about 5-10 extra minutes, I've done it and it's not bad.
I looked more carefully at OP’s images. It appears to me that 2/3 - 3/4 of the LVB is buried under the right rear corner of the frunk tub. If that’s correct, I see the point in pulling the tub.
 
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dtbaker61

dtbaker61

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I looked more carefully at OP’s images. It appears to me that 2/3 - 3/4 of the LVB is buried under the right rear corner of the frunk tub. If that’s correct, I see the point in pulling the tub.
knowing that the battery hold-down is only on the rear 'foot' of the battery, and that after removing the foot (2x 10mm nuts, with a 8" or 12" extension), then the battery COULD be wiggled back, the post cover flipped up, terminals removed and battery wiggled out *probably* without removing tub.... just the rear beauty cover and strut (18mm nut)
 
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rreddy3

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knowing that the battery hold-down is only on the rear 'foot' of the battery, and that after removing the foot (2x 10mm nuts, with a 8" or 12" extension), then the battery COULD be wiggled back, the post cover flipped up, terminals removed and battery wiggled out *probably* without removing tub.... just the rear beaty cover and strut (18mm nut)
🤔. Perhaps this design came from the same studio that designed weightless rods and frictionless bearings….
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